Finding Your Climbing Rhythm: The Cadence Strategy That Keeps You Strong When It Counts
Halfway up a 12km climb, your legs are screaming. You're grinding away in a harder gear, cadence dropping below 60 RPM, and each pedal stroke feels like pushing through concrete. Meanwhile, you know and see other riders spinning smoothly at what looks like half your effort. How are they making it look so easy?
The answer is only partly that they’re fitter or stronger. Often, they're just spinning at the right cadence for their body and the gradient. And here's the thing: cadence is one of the most misunderstood aspects of climbing, yet it's one you can optimize IMMEDIATELY without getting fitter first.
Why Cadence Matters More Than You Think
Cadence—your pedalling speed measured in revolutions per minute—directly affects how efficiently your muscles produce power. There is research to show that cyclists who maintain optimal cadence during climbs sustain power output 8-12% longer than those who let cadence drop too low (1).
When you grind in too hard a gear with low cadence, you're recruiting more fast-twitch muscle fibers. These fibers are powerful but fatigue quickly and rely heavily on glycogen. When you spin at higher cadence in an easier gear, you're recruiting more slow-twitch fibers—less powerful individually, but far more fatigue-resistant and better at using fat for fuel alongside glycogen.
The physiological reality is this: low cadence climbing places higher loads through your knee joints and creates more muscular tension. Higher cadence distributes the work more evenly across pedal strokes and maintains better blood flow to working muscles.
The Gradient-Cadence Connection
Here's where most cyclists go wrong: they try to maintain the same cadence regardless of gradient. But different slopes demand different strategies.
For gradients of 4-6%, aim for 80-90 RPM. This moderate cadence balances power production with efficiency. Your cardiovascular system can keep up with the oxygen demand, and your muscles aren't overloaded on any single pedal stroke.
For gradients of 7-9%, drop to 70-80 RPM. Steeper slopes require more force per pedal stroke, so slightly lower cadence helps you generate that force without spinning your wheels. You're still protecting your joints while producing the power needed.
For gradients above 10%, you might drop to 60-75 RPM. Very steep sections sometimes demand it. But here's the key: this should be deliberate, not accidental. You're choosing this cadence because the gradient requires it, not because you're too tired to maintain higher cadence.
Finding Your Personal Sweet Spot
The ranges above are starting points, not rigid rules. Your optimal climbing cadence depends on your muscle fiber composition, your training background, and your current fitness level. Some riders genuinely climb better at 75 RPM, while others thrive at 95 RPM.
I came across this study outlining that self-selected cadence during prolonged efforts typically falls within 80-90 RPM for most trained cyclists, but individual variation can be significant (2). The key is finding what feels sustainable for you—not what looks good or what someone told you is "correct."
Here's how to find your range. On your next climb of moderate length (5-8 minutes), spend one minute each at 70, 80, and 90 RPM. Note which feels most sustainable—where your breathing stays controlled, your legs don't burn excessively, and you feel like you could maintain the effort. Congrats… you’ve just found your starting point.
The Gearing Equation
Optimal cadence is meaningless without the gearing to support it. If you're consistently dropping below 70 RPM on climbs because you've run out of easier gears, your equipment is limiting your performance. A climbing-specific cassette with a 30, 32 or 34-tooth low gear paired with compact chainrings gives you the gearing range to maintain efficient cadence on virtually any gradient.
This isn't about making things "easier." It's about matching your gearing to the demands of sustained climbing. Maintaining 75 RPM in an easier gear produces the same power as grinding at 60 RPM in a harder gear, but the easier gear keeps you fresher longer.
Practicing Cadence Control
Optimal cadence isn't just theoretical knowledge—it's a skill you build through deliberate practice. On your regular training rides, practice holding specific cadences for 3-5 minute blocks. Use a bike computer or power meter with cadence display. Notice how different cadences feel at different power outputs. Or better yet, do this on a trainer. No distractions. Just short periods of focus to build an efficient habit.
The goal is making cadence control automatic. When you hit a steep pitch, you instinctively shift to maintain your target range. When the gradient eases, you shift back up and increase cadence. This fluidity—this constant micro-adjustment—is what separates smooth climbers from struggling ones.
Your climbing strength isn't just about your engine. It's about how efficiently you use that engine. And cadence is the dial that controls efficiency.
FAQ
Should I focus on cadence or power output when climbing? Both matter, but cadence enables sustainable power. If you let cadence drop too low, you'll fatigue faster even if you're hitting your power targets. Maintain efficient cadence first, then work on increasing power output within that cadence range.
What if I can't maintain 80+ RPM on steep climbs? First check your gearing—you may need an easier cassette. If your gearing is appropriate, gradually build strength through hill repeats at your current sustainable cadence, then progressively work on maintaining slightly higher cadence over time.
Is there a "best" cadence for climbing? Not universally. Most trained cyclists perform best between 75-85 RPM on sustained climbs, but individual variation is significant. Your optimal cadence is the one you can sustain with controlled breathing and without excessive muscular fatigue.
How do I know if my cadence is too high? If your breathing becomes laboured and choppy, or you feel like you're spinning but not producing power, your cadence is likely too high for the gradient. Drop 5-10 RPM and see if your efficiency improves
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REFERENCES
Lucia, A., Hoyos, J., & Chicharro, J.L. (2001). Preferred pedalling cadence in professional cycling. Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise, 33(8), 1361-1366.
Hansen, E.A. & Smith, G. (2009). Factors affecting cadence choice during submaximal cycling and cadence influence on performance. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance, 4(1), 3-17.